Tanga: A Quiet retreat

Scenic harbour views, yatches and ships, warm weather and enchanting caves await you in Tanga by Romosh.

I had not been to Tanga; so when my travelling mates suggested a days’ stop over there, I embraced the idea and jumped in with both feet. We had been travelling for a while through Tanzania and were looking for a transit point from where we could relax and rest while taking in a little more of the vast East African country before moving on to Kenya.

Tanga is the most northerly seaport city of Tanzania and the best way to get there from Mombasa or Dar-es-Salaam is by road. So we hit the tarmack at 8 am aboard Scandinavia, which is one of the many reliable buses and shuttles that plies that route. Because most of the roads in Tanzania are well-tarmacked the four-hour overland trip from Dar-es-Salaam to Tanga was comfortable. This bus company also offered us bottled water and fruit drink, candy and biscuits. We reached our home for a day in the hot mid day sun and were met by enthusiastic taxi drivers who almost carried our luggage and bodies off the bus, literally. Shocked, we declined riding in their vehicles because we did not want them to continue huggling over us. Besides we only had only 24 hours to get a feel of Tanga and it’s people and decided to walk a short distance in to the town while quietly warding off the aggressive taxi men.

Tanga was more than we expected. The old colonial town, which was once a thriving sisal producer, has many historic buildings such as the Tanga War Graves and Memorials also has East Africa’s third largest seaport. The weather is hot through most of the year and the atmosphere tranquil.

While taking the ten-minute drive to Mkonge Hotel, which was to be our home for a day, we spotted part of Tanga’s scenic bay on which some yatches and ships had docked. A few brave swimmers were splashing out in the sea, a few miles off the bay. There were many cyclists on the roads and for a moment my mind drifted to select European cities, as their bicycles resemble those ridden in some western European cities.

Our hosts and a few resident monkeys gave us a memorable welcome as the porter showed us to our room. It was now 3 pm and the midday sun had drained off some of our energy. After a refreshing snack and a short siesta we mapped out a plan for the rest of the day. We consulted the locals (taxi driver and hotel receptionist) for tips on other nearby tourist attractions. They recommended Amboni Caves adding that a visit to Tanga was incomplete without a trip to the caves. “Caves?” I asked my eyes lighting up.

“You do not have much time seeing it is already after 3 pm because the cave entrances are closed to the public by 6 pm” cautioned one a man at Mkonge. We had other plans for the next morning and so we hired a driver and headed to Amboni caves located some 8 km north of Tanga, which is a ten minutes drive away from Mkonge Hotel; off the Tanga-Mombasa road. Experts say these caves cover an area of 234 sq. km Our driver who also doubled as a guide said as we walked the short distance form the car park to one of the the cave entrances that the land we were walking on and the adjacent caves were once under water. This confirmed research according to which Amboni caves, which were formed some 150 million years ago during the Jurassic age existed under water some 20 million years ago.

It is not clear how the caves were discovered although local tribes such as the Digo who live near them have used it for prayers. The colonial British government declared the caves a conservation area in 1922. In 1963, these caves were handed to the department of antiques in 1963 and there are altogether ten caves but only one is used for guided tours. After paying a fee of Tsh 10,000(about US $ 7) for a group of four (two adults and two youngsters) East Africans, and being given a guide (fee includes guide’s fees) and some torches we went into the pitch dark caves. Our friendly local guide took us through thirteen points in the most extensive limestone caves in East Africa. We walked past the shrine, through the picnic and airport roads (which lead to a huge picnic area - with a sitting capacity of up to 100 persons- and an airport waiting room respectively), ascended the Kilimanjaro steps and sat on a small limestone sofa). We were also shown a hideout once used by a Kenya Mau Mau freedom fighter and his aide; and interesting formations such as a small sofa, a ship, a large wings wing, map of Africa, statue of liberty, head of a male lion and the front limb of an elephant. We also spotted bats that were flapping their wings high above our heads at some sections of the dark caves.

The guide sent my imagination flying when he showed us three passages. I was so excited I could only recall two: the one leading to Tanga Cement Factory and another to Shimo La Tewa 100 km away (in Kenya). We learnt that access to these passages is limited only to licensed researchers and tourists who have both the knowledge and equipment to trek the 100 km long oxygen- inhibited passage to Kenya that are also narrow and low (meaning cave explorers have to crawl) in some areas.

He then showed us the path to a sharp hidden descent whilst narrated the legendary tale of a Caucasian couple that disappeared at that point while exploring the caves with their dog. They preferred the guidance of their dog and declined offers to have a local cave guide accompany them. While the dog’s body was later recovered near mount Kilimanjaro no one knows what became of the couple. I hope they found one of the hidden exits and returned to their countries. The one-hour walk through the enchanting and fascinating caves left me yearning for more. Maybe we should return, with huge oxygen masks and all, for more cave adventures. But first we needed to get back to the city centre and have a taste of Tanga’s kitchen.

Night was falling when we finally returned to the hotel and, feeling exhausted, we opted for a drink in the hotel’s garden against the backdrop of the picturesque Tanga sunset and part of Tanga’s habour. Dinner, which is made on order, was served an hour later. There was nothing better to do after feasting the finger licking vegetable curry and chapatti (form of Indian bread) followed by the best vanilla and strawberry ice cream we have ever had.

As we left this quiet city the following day we all agreed that Tanga, devoid of the glitzy tourist trappings, is not only perfect for a relaxed holiday but also for a retirement home or a writers hideout.

Quick facts:

Population: 243,580 according to the 2002 census.
It is a wealthy mixture of Swahili people (including the Digo and Sambaa tribes), descendants of Arabian traders and Indians who arrived during British colonial rule.

Size: Covering an area of 600sq. km Tanga is one of the largest cities in Tanzania. Located on the Indian Ocean in northeastern Tanzania.

Accessibility: Tanga is easily accessible overland (by road). Several companies including Scandinavia, Tawakal and Kilimanjaro Express ply the route. A bus ticket from Dar es Salaam to Tanga costs T shs 8000 (Approx. US $ 5.70). There is no direct flight to Tanga from main international airports in the region.

Time: GMT +3 Hours

Travel times: Approximately three hours drive from either Mombasa or Dar-es-Salaam at 80 km / hr. Locals use dala dala (public vans), bicycles and taxi to get around.

Weather: Warm with temperatures ranging between 30 and 35 degrees Celsius throughout the year.

Clothing: Light cotton or linen garments

Cuisine: Coastal dishes with Indian and Arabian influences

Currency: Tanzanian Shillings (T Shs)

Accommodation: The choices are few. Mkonge Hotel in the Raskazone area has some of the best facilities including the largest swimming pool in Tanga. Another option is Raskazone Hotel, a short drive past Mkonge (in the same area).

Main produce: Sisal, tea, coffee and cotton. Others include cashew nuts and coconuts.

Religion: Mostly Islam; also Hindu and tribal religions.

Main attraction: Amboni caves, Tanga War Memorials, the serene environment.